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This week’s vintage offering in the HODINKEE Shop is fun one you will not want to miss – from time-only to chronographs, we have a little something for everyone. Check out what’s in store below!
1960s Zenith Chronograph Reference A277
Zenith came out with the A277 in the mid-1960s and at the time this was quite a large and fairly funky watch. It has a 40mm case, a bezel with circle markers on it, and a very avant garde for the time “ladder” style bracelet. The dial is super legible and the bezel is very easy to use, making it a great mix of functionality and aesthetics. Zenith had two versions of this watch and the present example is the second one, with a different movement, updated crowns logo, subsidiary hands, and seconds hand.
These A277s are not seen very often, and this is a particularly nice example, especially with the ladder bracelet. These bracelets were made by Gay Frères for Zenith and are signed “GF” with the deer head logo inside the clasp and “Zenith” on the external part of the clasp. Since these bracelets have folded links that are often seen with wear, it’s rare to find one in such good condition. The way this watch looks on the wrist with the “ladder” bracelet gives a great vintage chronograph vibe that’s hard to pass up.
1980s Heuer Regatta Reference 134.601 In PVD-Coated Steel
With the defining circular apertures on its dial meant for timing the 10 minutes at the starting line for a yacht race, this Heuer Regatta is not your average wristwatch. When activated by the pusher at two o’clock, the apertures go from all black to all blue and begin to turn orange as the seconds go by. After the first five minutes, the apertures are all orange and for the second five minutes they begin to turn black. After 10 minutes the apertures are all black and the countdown is over. Each circle represents one minute, so this watch can be used for timing other events, making it extra interesting and functional. This watch was also meant for diving, and was what the original owner used this particular watch for; it’s rated to 100 meters, but as with all vintage, we don’t recommend getting it wet unless it’s properly tested.
The story goes that the original owner acquired this watch after his scuba certification, and wore it when he dove. After he stopped diving years later he also stopped wearing the watch. This person was very careful with the watch because most of the PVD coating on the watch is still intact. Many PVD watches from this era are very worn and it is rare to find them in such good, original condition. Coming in at 44mm this watch is quite substantial on the wrist, and is perfect for summer. The PVD “Jubilee” style bracelet adds sophistication to this mostly sporty watch. This is a great opportunity to acquire one of these unusual vintage watches in great condition.
1950s Universal Genève Polerouter Jet Reference 20355/11
Universal Genève introduced the Polerouter in 1954, and it was designed by none other than Gerald Genta, the same man who designed the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. This was one of Genta’s earliest designs and like many of his other creations, they remain highly regarded and sought after today. Universal Genève had multiple variations of the Polerouter, including the Polerouter Jet.
This model differs a bit from the original Polerouter with its longer faceted lugs and simpler dial design, adding to the overall utilitarian aesthetic. This watch has everything one would need and nothing you don’t: long sunken hour markers with lume at the end and bold, lumed dauphine hands, as well as a sweeping seconds hand. Another great thing about this watch is how thin it is and how it sits on the wrist so nicely, making it perfect for wearing under a cuff. We can thank the caliber 215 microrotor for that, allowing the case to be on the thinner side. The Polerouter Jet is a great watch for anyone, from the most seasoned watch collector to a novice who wants their first “good watch.”
The Full Set
This week we also have a Movado Tempo-Matic with ultra cool two-tone dial and original bracelet, an unusual Heuer chronograph from 1979 that was made in France, and a striking Breitling Chrono-Matic which was from Breitlings first line of automatic chronographs. Be sure to take a closer look right here.
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